Alza remi! Just got back from Venice, having seen (amongst other things) the 36th paddle boat marathon - the Vogalonga - being contested.http://www.vogalonga.com/eng/index_ing.aspThough contested is hardly the right word for something more like a regatta open to all comers, in which a motley crew of golden oldies, responding to the cry of "alza remi" lifted their oars and came perilously near to capsizing the boat. For a moment there I fancied entering next year's event - in an aluminium Canadian canoe - but on learning that the course is some 30 km long, up to Burano and back to St Mark's square via Murano and the Cannaregio canal, thought better of it. In the teeth of the strong wind that sometimes blows in the lagoon, this could be a pretty challenging undertaking.

Better stick to the ancient monuments, maybe. Who could fail to be bowled over by the Scuola Grande di San Rocco, the incredibly lavish interior of which Tintoretto spent 23 years of his life in decorating - virtually unaided, it would appear. When Ruskin - no mean painter himself - saw what Tintoretto had done he remarked "As for painting, I think I didn't know what it was until today."

Interesting to note that Ruskin admired Venice, partly, because it had traditionally shown resistance to the authority of Rome. And also because, like England, its prosperity had been based on maritime power. He sounds a cautionary note, though. In The Stones of Venice he warns that England "may be led through prouder eminence to less pitied destruction." The prospects of proud eminence have diminished somewhat since Ruskin's time, though those for less pitied destruction can't altogether be ruled out.

That said, we hope to make it through to next week end.