This is a
transcript of a 21 page home-made booklet, hand sewn, measuring 8” by 5” in
blue covers, containing a manuscript account – mostly quite legible – of a tour
from London to Paris made by a reasonably observant and well-connected young
Englishman between September and November 1802. Doubt about the orthography is signaled by the use of square
brackets – [?]
Prefixed to the
account, on the front endpaper, is
the signature “John Mallet” -
(presumably the author) of “Highbury Grove” - from where he begins his journey and to which he returns
with evident relief in the concluding lines. The next few pages are given over to a list of useful
addresses, followed by a daily account of the tour itself.
John Mallet made
his visit to France during a brief window of opportunity, i.e. the Peace of
Amiens, more properly perhaps the Truce of Amiens, which was in force between
March 1802 and May 1803.
Hostilities between France and Britain (together with its allies) were
briefly suspended. The French
Revolution had already taken place, Louis XV1 and Marie Antoinette had been
executed, a Republic declared and the Terror had run its course. This was the era of the Consulate
(1799-1804) that intervened between the Directorate and the Empire declared in
1804. Napoleon Bonaparte was
the first and most prominent of the three Consuls at the helm of the First
Republic – in August 1802 he had been confirmed as “First Consul for Life.” It
is clear from Mallet’s record of things seen in Paris and en route that an energetic
cult of personality was being nurtured to promote Napoleon’s name and fame, not
only in the civic and military but also in the artistic domain.
Although
Mallet’s Parisian visit was only a
matter of five weeks or so, he was busy attending concerts, opera, theatres,
museums, libraries, galleries and grand houses, recording his impressions on a
daily basis. Musically inclined,
he took violin lessons and shopped around for instruments. He also gives an interesting record of
other personalities that he met in Paris, not only French citizens such as
Rousseau’s muse, Eliza d’Houdetot, but also British Francophiles like Helen
Maria Williams (the translator of Paul et Virginie – and whose Ode on the Peace of Amiens was declared
treasonable by Napoleon!)) and Mary Linwood the celebrated worker in crewel
work upon whom Napoleon (whose portrait she did in that medium) conferred the
freedom of Paris in 1803.
Among other important visitors from outre-Manche mentioned by
Mallet were the poet Samuel Rogers
and other notables such as Margaret King, Lady Mount Cashel and the brilliant
Irish advocate John Philpot Curran – both of whom had been bitterly opposed to
the recent Act of Union with Ireland.
According to his biographer, Charles Phillips, Curran’s temper “was much
soured, and he saw everything with a jaundiced eye… The change in French society wrought by the revolution was
little to his taste: it was a
change from “frivolous elegance to a squalid, vulgar, beard-grown vivacity”.
Mallet’s
observations, although not altogether uncritical, offer a more balanced and
less jaundiced view of the social scene that he encountered.
Dieppe
Roland’s Hotel
Rouen
Hotel des Bons
Enfans & Hotel de France
M. Dubec No 10 Boulevard Cauchoise
Mr Hartley 15 Rue Herbiere
Cathedral – Bridge
of Boats
Paris
Countess of Mount
Cashel
Hotel de Dome
Rue St Dominique
Miss Helene Maria
Williams
239
– Quay Malaquais au coin de la Rue des Petits Augustins
Madame
Sabonaderes Rue Bigot No 779 and
la Rue de Babylone Maison
de Marengo Rue St Dominique
Monsr Prieur
Hotel
de la Rochefoucaud
Rue de Seine Tf St Gn [?]
Monsr De Narp
463 Rue neuve des Petits Champs
Monsr Durand
25
Rue de Paradis Tg [?] Poisonniere
Christo Fagan
Esqre
Hotel
d’Espagne Rue de la Loi
Sir Robt
Smyth (Messrs Millingen &
Este)
2 Rue Cerutti Tg [?] Italien
Col. Tyndale
9
Rue Choiseul
Mr Roese
Hotel
de Notre Dame Rue du Brully [?]
Mr Francis
Hotel de Paris Rue de la Loi
Monsr Le Sage –
Chez un Marchand de fer
732
Rue d’Enfer – Saint Michel
Monsr Gombeu [?]
d’onnous
Rue de Noyere No 296
Madame
‘Countess’ Eliza d’Houdetot
Rue de Varennes No 655
Miss Linwood
Hotel de Marigny
Paris
Hotel de L’Univers
– La Rue Croix des Petits Champs
Very –
Restaurateur dans les Thuilleries
Semestre 35 St Germain – l’aufrais [?] pres du Louvre
Coudy – 239 La Rue
Bailleul pres du Louvre
Remy- Limonadier
41 Rue Honore.
Tour from London to Paris
September 17th 1802
Left Highbury
Grove Friday Morning Sept. 17th at 7 o’ clock in a Post Chaise with
P. Mallet & called in Castle St for Mr Salmon when we proceeded to Epsom, a
most delightful morning. And very little incommoded with dust, as this Road is
the least public, which on that account, as well as for the beautiful views it
affords, is far preferable to any other, at the same time there is a danger of
being detained for want of Horses;
near Mickleham is Norbury Park the seat of a Mr Lock – we walked thro
the Park, had a most charming view under a remarkably old Yew Tree about half
way up the Hill and perhaps a finer one under another yew tree at the summit
ran [saw?] the extensive views
from the front & back of the House which only require Water to render them
perfect. Were delighted with the
Road all the way by Leatherhead -
Dorking. Horsham most
particularly with the Village of Hendfield, and arrived at Brighton at about 8
o’clock.
Saturday
Morning. Saw Mr & Mrs Trugood
& family on the Steine dined with them at Hove about 2 miles from B. and at
8 o’clock the same Evening Mr S & myself took leave of Mr Trugood &
P.M. to be conveyed to the Edinburgh Packet Capts Lind for Dieppe with about 2
Dozen Passengers.
Sunday Morning Sept 19th. The weather very delightful, had some
hours sleep, & suffered only from a bad cold & head-ache. Among the Passengers was Mr Allen of
London & the Honble Col Blaquiere 25th Lt Dns a very intelligent
& pleasant Man – we sailed at about 5 Knots an Hour and reached Dieppe at
about 7 o’ clock the same Evening.
Went to Roland’s Hotel & were much pleased with the House &
attention of the family, especially one of the Daughters now only 19. Tho’ a widow, & the eldest Son, who
is a sensible & superior young Man & well deserving a better situation.
Sept 20. Wrote to Mrs M to
be sent by the 1st Packet for Brighton & left Dieppe at 2 o’
clock in the Diligence with Mr S: Col Blaquiere & Capt Stewart for Rouen –
much pleased with the Country- roads & Carriage – dined at Totes and
arrived at Rouen at 12 o’clock same night – slept at Turnell’s Place Loyale Rue
Ganterie – Places in Diligence 10 liv; each.
21. Called on Mrs Hartley
with Miss Walker’s Letter & was pleased with her manners & politeness
in giving me a letter to Miss Helen Mariah [sic] Williams – Paris. Afterwards on Mr Dubec with Mr Swain’s
Letter, & left Rouen after dinner at 2 o’clock in a Cabriolet in Company
only with Mr Salmon, as Col Blaquiere & Captn Stewart seemed unwilling to
join us any longer, but upon the whole were no losers [?] except in being
obliged to pay 5 Guineas to be conveyed to Paris. – the country about Rouen is
exceedingly beautiful, the entrance & Quay very grand, we traveled the
lower Road which is a few miles longer than by Pontoise, but which is amply compensated
for, by the varied & rich scenery it affords, being accompanied by the
Seine almost all the way – the view from a Hill a few Miles from Rouen,
commanding the Town, the Rocks, River & Wood is perhaps as grand as any
view between it & Paris. The
Roads generally run for some length in a straight line, in itself certainly no
beauty, but they are surrounded with such a varied Country, that the sameness
is scarcely perceivable; & on each side of the Road are Apple & Pear
Trees, but no doubt the principal beauty of this part of the Country is to be
attributed to its River, which is constantly producing the most delightful
variety, with little Islands richly wooded scattered over it, so that the Eye
never feels satisfied – arrived at Galleins at 8 o’clock – made a good Supper
upon Eggs, Peaches & Grapes & drank to all our friends in England in
Burgundy Wine.
Sept. 22nd Rose
at 4 o’clock, and proceeded, thro’ perhaps a finer Country than before, at the
Rate of about 5 Miles an hour, to Bonniere, where, while at breakfast, we were
not a little surprised to see Col. B & Capt S arrive; between Galleins
& Bonniere begins the Vine Country, very much resembling Hops, but not so
high. The view from a Hill before
you descend to Rosny is very fine, at Rosny is the Chateau built for Sully by
Henry 4th, but not to be compared to any in England; the Country
about Vernon fine, & the views of the Cathedral, which meets the Eye a short distance from Mantes, has a
good effect, but the view of the Town, its Cathedral, River & Bridges over
it which are all combined in one, has a charming effect upon one of the Bridges
on this side towards Meulan, in the neighbourhood of which are some handsome
Chateaux; dined at Meulan where Mr Allen & others overtook us – started
again at about 4 o’clock & traveled thro a very fine Country to St Germain
where we arrived at abt 6 o’clock , too late to have a good view of the Terrace
– the Grand Ecurie is handsomer than any thing of the kind I ever saw, it
formerly belonged to Count D’artois – the Town is very handsome, not unlike
Oxford in the style of its Buildings.
Col Blaquiere & Capt Steward again arrive at the same Hotel, &
as it seems to be their object to overtake us, it was a satisfaction to find
that we always kept them behind, & by that means had the choice of our
Rooms.
Sept 23rd Left
St Germain exactly at 4 o’clock,
saw the water-works at Marli – passed by MalMaison, and at 6 o’clock
arrived at the 1st Barriere or Turnpike, a fine view of Paris; this
being the Anniversary of the Republic Year 11 the Cannons were firing &
Colors flying, & with the Sun shining it altogether had a most grand effect
– this Entrance into Paris is the finest – wide enough for 8 Carriages with
Trees on each side & on each side of them large walks for the Public, from
the 2nd Barriere a grand view of the Thuilleries Palace & the
finest part of this wonderful City.
Sept 23rd.
Breakfasted at the Hotel de lUnivers La Rue Croix des Petits Champs,
then walked through the finest part of Paris & called on Monsr De Narp with
a letter from Mr Barthelemon, saw two of the finest Violins perhaps in the
World, and in the Eveng. Went with Mr De Narp his two sons & Mr Salmon to
the Thuilleries – the Gardens splendidly illuminated crowded with People of all
Countries & Descriptions & with different Spectacles & Amusements,
among which the Arbre de Couron seemed most attractive & the novelty of the
Scene made it the more entertaining; It may be described by supposing a
middling sized Mast fixed in the Ground with a circular thing nearly at the top
between 60 & 100 feet high, to which are suspended different prizes, from
which any that can ascend takes his Choice, and the upper part being covered
with Soap adds much to the amusement of the Spectators, for when a Man is almost
within reach of the Prize the difficulty increases as much as his Strength
decreases – At about 8 o’clock the Concert began at the back of the Palace
composed of about 300 of the ablest Performers, & the Music & Singing
had a very fine effect, soon after the beginning of the Concert Bonaparte came
out upon the Gallery & after saluting the Multitude, took his Seat between
the two other Consuls Cambaceres & Le Brun, & remained till the end of
the Concert which was about 9 when the fire Works were displayed upon the Pont
de la Revolution, & the Number of Spectators of this splendid Scene far
exceed calculation.
Septr 24. Went to the
Prefecture de Police for Carte de Surete wrote a long Letter to M.M. dined at
Semestres No3 Quay de l’Ecole with Mr Salmon for ?18=67 & had
Soup-Beef-Potatoes – Bottle of Champaign – Desert. Bread – Good water & waiters included – went in the
Eveng. To the Theatre Francais where Andromache was admirably performed – Talma
their principal actor has an excellent voice & good action and the
difference between the other Performers is not so great as in England. This Theatre is generally very full
& no doubt is the best, & may be compared to Drury Lane. Several Persons in endeavouring to get
Seats made a way, by climbing over the Heads of those who were seated, which
was so differently received from what would be the case in England, that it
seemed to be considered as good sport, & Mr S. had a very narrow escape of
being in the same awkward situation.
The Parterre is the best Place & the Price only 1/10d.
25. Called on Mr Prieur
with Mr Smart’s Letters, went with him to the National Museum, called on Lady
Mount Cashel, but learnt from her friend Mme Sabonadiere, that she had left
Paris – gave Mme S. the Books & Letters from Mr Parnell, was much pleased
with her Manners and soon became acquainted upon her finding that I had lately
seen her friends the Aikins, Barbauld, &c – went to the Louvre saw Mr S.
Sharpe & Mr Maltby, but the crowd was so great that I only took a general
view. & in the Evening to the Theatre de Louvois where a Concert was
performed in a capital manner (Leader Kreutzer) beginning with a Symphony of
Haydn’s & ending with another Sym. composed by Kreutzer & played by him
& his Brother – both excellent.
Caffro performed on the Hautboy & a new Inst. (Cor Anglais) in tone like a
Voice, Madme Rosine Quesnay sang
but nothing very capital. –
Sept. 26. Walked round the
Louvre to view the different Productions of French Industry open to the Public
during the Complimentary Days and after dinner went with Mr S. to Frascati a
very gay & beautiful Scene the House & Gardens handsomely illuminated.
27. Left the Hotel De
L’Univers & came to No 239 au coin de la Rue Bailleul pres de Louvre, spent
some time in viewing the Paintings & Statues in the Louvre in company with
a very intelligent young foreigner, called on Mr S. Sharpe Hotel Marigny &
saw Kemble, Erskine, S. Rogers & Boddington & in the Evening went with
Mr S. to the Theatre Buffa & for 1/10 heard Kyanoni [?] &c & a good
Band (Leader Kreutzer) but certainly not equal to the Opera House in England.
28. Wrote by Mr S. Sharpe
to Miss M & Dean Walker – spent the Morning at the Louvre & in the
Evening went with Mr S to the Opera admission 3Fr each, saw Semiramis, but the
Singing will not do after the Italian Opera, & in the Ballet (Dansamonie)
[sic] the best Dancers Vestris, Deshayes, Mesdames Gardel, though by no means
so far superior to those in England, as is generally supposed.
29. Called with Mr S. on
Mr Este with Mr Puffin’s Letters saw Col Tyndale, & went with Mr S. in the
evening to the Theatre Montanseir where is a good comic Actor (Brunet) the only
one worth seeing, & in the Lobby is exhibited a scene of the greatest
profligacy & vice that can be conceived.
30. Went in a Chaise to Mr
Durand then to Panorama of Paris, called on Col Tyndale & in the Evening to
the Theatre Vaudeville with Mr S: saw young Chalie & Mr Barber (Mr Huttons
friend) but the Theatre not worth the trifling admission of 1/4/2.
Oct.1 Took an early
Breakfast & went with Mr Salmon in a Fiacre (for 12 sous [?] =10/6 to
Montmorencie saw Rousseau’s Cottage now occupied by Gretry the Composer,
situated in a delightful Country, & surrounded with Vine Yards, & Fruit
Trees, in passing thro’ the Wood near the Cottage, was struck with an Object
not very distant, & upon approaching it, found it to be a beautiful Damsel
all in white reclining upon a Bank with a Book in her hand, & her Companion
sleeping by her side with her Veil over his face, which added to that interest
which must be felt upon visiting the abode of Rousseau, walked round the Garden
& took the following Lines from a Bust of Rousseau in one of the Garden
Walks.
A
J.J.
Du
Sentiment peintre fidele
Tu
fus l’inspirer a nos coeurs
La
Nature fut ton Nudite
Tu
saisis ses vives couleurs;
Mere,
ecoutez son language
Amans,
visitez ces doux lieux
Rousseau
dans ce humble Hermitage
Connut
le secret d’etre heureux.
Returning saw the abbey at St Denis which one cannot but view with
regret upon seeing a Building, once so beautiful, now in the most ruinous
state. The Date upon a Stone in
the Centre of the Arch is 1692.
Returned to Paris to dinner in the Evening went to the Theatre
Pittoresque ou Musique, [?] where Monsr. Pierre [?] exhibited several
productions of wonderful skill.
2nd. Went with
Mr S. to make some purchases in Shawls & Cambric & to Citoyen
Dihl’s Porcelain Manufactory &
were highly gratified with its splendor & beauty – saw the new Opera House
on the Italian Boulevard – was scarcely able to walk home being much
indisposed, & seized with a weakness in all my limbs.
Oct 3rd. Having
had a bad night, did not rise ‘till 11 o’clock, & in the Evening walked to
the Palais Royal & saw Bell’s Messenger.
4. Recovered sufficiently
to accompany Mr S to the Ecole Militaire, a fine Building, which may be seen
without entering its Gates;
afterwards to the L’Hospital des Invalides, a noble Institution, its
Saloon or Temple of Mars, is one of the finest things in Paris, there is also a
very curious Clock denoting the Day of the Month, the Hour etc, its Pendulum 36
ft. long – then to the Palais du Corps Legislatif, a very handsome Building,
the Hall of the Sittings is semicircular & elegantly finished it was in
this Hall that an attempt was made at Bonaparte’s Life when he was protected by
the two Grenadiers. [note in margin which reads “This happened in the Orangerie
at St Cloud”] The President sits
in the Centre with the Statues of Lycurgus, Solon & Demosthenes on the
right & Brutus, Cato & Cicero on the left. We afterwards saw the
Ecole des Mines, in La Rue Universite & when finished will contain a
very large collection of Specimens highly interesting to the Mineralogist. We then went to the Hotel de Monnaies
[?] which also contains a fine cabinet of Mineralogy where Public Lectures are
given every other day during the Winter.
In the Evening we confined our walks to the Palais Royal, & in
visiting several of the Shops made a purchase of some silk Stockings @ 27/ [?]
per pair met with a pleasant party of young Women busy at their Millinery among
whom was an English Lady with whom I had some conversation, in comparing the
People of both Nations – Till this Evening there has been no Rain, of any
consequence, I understand for some Months.
Oct 5. Went with Mr S. in
a Fiacre to the Observatoire – to the Manufacture des Gobelins, well worth
seeing, to the Pantheon, a most grand & elegant Building, the view of Paris
& the Country from the top at the height of 250 ft. is very fine upon such
a clear day as this, saw in the Vault the Tombs of Voltaire & Rousseau,
then went to the Palais du Senat Conservateur, the Gardens very large &
handsome, saw the Hall, sat in Bonaparte’s Chair, but the whole is not as
elegant as the Hall of the Corps Legislatif – we afterwards walked to Lucien
Bonaparte’s House,& saw many capital Rooms hung with the finest
Paintings. In the Evening we went
to the Phantasmagoroie. – Received a Letter from MM. Miss M & C.M.
6. Engaged a Fiacre for
the day for Eighteen Livres. Mr S
& myself set off early to Bagatelle to breakfast paid 15 sous each for
admission, heard Madame Rosierre sing in a most superior style & found her
a very pleasant Lady. Continued
our Ride through the Bois de Boulogne to St Cloud which is a very fine Place
but could only see the exterior of the Palais as the 1st Consul was
there, thence to the Porcelaine Manufactory at Sevres, & thence to
Versailles the entrance to which is very grand with its Palace in front of the
View – after dinner walked over the Garden remarkable for its Orangerie –
Statues - & Jets d’eau, one of which, the Phelesque [?] contains 261= which
throw the water 66 ft high Thence to Petit Trianon walked over the English
Garden said to contain 120 Acres – thence to Grand Trianon - & thence to
the back of the Palace saw the Apollo and Muses in a Rock (Le Rocher) the
statues – Vases – Colonnade in this Part are magnificent.
Oct. 7 Being the day for
the Review Mr S & self took our Station near the Principal Entrance at the
Palace at about 10 o’clock & at 12 the 1st Consul attended by
the Mameluke & about a dozen other officers all on horseback reviewed the
Troops amounting to 5 or 6000 all making a very good appearance especially the
Cavalry & Grenadiers – had an excellent view, towards the end, of Bonaparte
while the Troops were all marching before him, and was so near as to see him
smile – the Review lasted for about an Hour and was excessively well managed
& had a grand effect. Saw Mr
Erskine in the Palace & spoke to Mr Boyne – Called at Hotel Despagne &
left Mr Smith’s Letter for Mr Fagan - & on Mr Desmaimieux Author of
Pasigraphia. In the Evening I went
with Mr S. to Theatre Francais, saw Baptiste & Madlle Mesvriy [?] in the
Misanthrope, was very much entertained – spoke to Mr S Rogers who was there
with Mr Boddington.
8. Wrote to G.T. Smart,
dined early, & went with Mr S. to the Jardin des Plantes which when
finished will be very handsome, saw the Elephant and other living Animals, also
the Cabinet of Natural Hist.
9. Went with Mr S. to
Bertrand’s Exhibition, perhaps the most curious in Paris, representing in wax
all the disorders to which the human body is liable, with a surprising accuracy
– for Gentlemen only. Afterwards
to Ligneureux’s Magazine of Porcelaine, Cabinet Work, Bronzes &c – very
splendid indeed. The Evening being
very wet, we were confined to the Cloisters of the Palais Royal.
10. Called on Mr De Narp,
thence to the Gallery saw Mr S Rogers, dined at King’s [?] Palais Royal. Went to the the Opera to see Didon
& the beautiful ballet Psyche thence to Frascati & at 1/2 past 11 Mr
Boddington & S. Rogers came.
October11. Went with Mr S
to see Madame Recamier’s House No 4 Rue Mon Blanc – 9 Rooms elegantly furnished
especially her Chamber with the most superb Bed, Glasses &c and at the side
a beautiful Marble Figure of Silence (Motto “Tutatur somnos et amores conscia
lecti”) [Silence guards the slumbers and the loves of this bed]
Thence to the Theatre Olympique in La Rue Victoire, very handsomely
built after a Greek Model – thence to the Pavillon d’Hanovre to see the Models
of London & Lyons.
12. Saw the Apartments of
the 1st Consul & Madame Bonaparte in the Palace. The 1st Room (Salon de Café)
very handsome and a beautiful Painting (Coreggio) “Antiope, l’Amour et Jupiter
transforme en Satyre”
2. (Salon de Compagnie) a
very elegant Room 5 Glasses, 2
Tables of most beautiful Mosaic Marble, & another of a large size in one
piece of coloured Marble “Jeu [?] de Seine” with two marble Statues support
Chandeliers & two other Bronze Statues fixed in Rouge Antique – 3rd
(Chambre a Coucher) Blue Silk but not so elegant as Madame
Recamier’s 4th.
(Salon a Dejeuner) very neat with some Paintings by Girardon and 5th.
Chambre de Toilette with the small “Meubles d’Angleterre” one containing all
the apparatus for a Lady set with steel studs & the other a small round
Table with a pretty device in the centre and round it the 12 signs of the
Zodiac in white. In the whole
about 9 Rooms and over them are the Premier Consul’s Apartments for Public
Affairs, but none particularly worth notice except the large dining room for
200 – with 9 very fine statues, full size, des Grands Hommes All these Rooms in the upper Part are
hung with Tapestry & very much as they were in the old Government – in the
Bibliotheque is a Mahogany round Table 71ft/2 and in one Piece – After dinner
went to the meeting of the Institute to see the Prizes disposed of & to
hear the different Memoires & in the Evening to Miss Williams’s Party - Countess
of Oxford, Arthur o’Connor, Curran, Mackintosh & his Lady – Mr Rogers –
several French Ladies &foreigners, all forming a very pleasant
Converzsatione. [sic]
Oct 13. Went with Mr S. to
Hotel de Bullion Rue J.J. Rousseau to see Mr Sauvage’s Paintings in imitation
of Bas Reliefs – the day being very wet played at Billiards with Mr. S. &
always conquered – dined at Semestre’s where (owing to the irratability [sic]
of Mr S. & my not being able to hear the remarks which are frequently made
without showing some resentment) a very unpleasant conversation took place
which may create a coolness between us & which will distress me much less
than if I had from any incaution made use of some expressions which upon
reflection I might have thought improper.
In the Evening we went to the Theatre Francais & saw Barbier de
Seville (Tragi Com:) admirably performed.
14. Went with Mr. S to
L’Abbe Sicard’s Lecture on the Deaf & Dumb with two tickets from M.
Prieur. It is one of the most
interesting things that can be conceived, and the performances of some of the
Scholars are surprising. The
Lecture is given in a very intelligible & pleasing manner & the whole
system appears to be excellent. In
the Evening went to the Billiard Room in Rue Honore & was highly
entertained with the bad play of a Citoyen.
15. Went with Mr S. in a
Fiacre to the Manufacture des Glaces in Rue Rive [?] at the end of Rue
Charenton where there are 600 persons employed. It is well worth seeing, thence to the Castle of Vincennes
now in a ruinous state thence to Charenton could not see the Ecole Veterinaire
it being in a state of repair –walked across a Field to see the Junction of the
Marne &Seine & returned to Paris – Paid 12* [?] =10* [?] for the Fiacre
– quite sufficient. In the Evening
went to the Opera (Tamerlan) saw all the best Dansers [sic] – it is one of the
most superb & splendid Operas that is performed. Some of the Music & Singing very good, but Madame
Maillard is more remarkable for size than voice – went to Frascati very full –
saw Mr Sutton.
Octr. 16. Went to see the
National Museum of Monuments collected from the different Churches, many of
which are much damaged, but when finished it will be a very fine collection
exhibiting the state of Statuary in France from the earliest periods. After dinner met by accident Mr Roese
who had been all the morning seeking me, having brought Letters from Highbury
Grove, was of course overjoyed at seeing him, we played several Games at
Billiards, and I wish I could play a Duett with him on the Fiddle with equal success. – Recd. a Letter from Dean
Walker..
17. Went with Mr Roese
& Mr S. to hear Monsr. Demaimieux’s demonstration of Pasigraphie, certainly
very ingenious, showing how soon, the Art of writing in a Language that maybe
read & understood by any Foreigner, might be learnt. He also showed that it might be spoken
– dined at Very’s in the Thuilleries, certainly the most elegant Restaurateur
in Paris, & of course the dearest.
In the Evening went to the Opera (Semiramis) with Mr Roese and
afterwards to Frascati, saw many Englishmen.
18. Went with Mr R. and Mr
S. to the Bibliotheque Nationale one of the noblest Institutions in Paris,
sufficient to say. It is superior to any thing of the kind in the World &
is open to all Strangers every day, except Sunday, from 10 to 2 & on two
days in the week to the Public. – Observed among the Prints (Tete de Christ
“Faite d’un seul Trait en spirale plume de Roseau en commencant par le centre
du Nez – dessinee par le celebre Claude Mellan en 1647 – donnee au Cab. Du Roy par
[?} M. Maurice Amateur – also an Engraving of Audouin’s of “Venus endormie
surprise par un Satyre” by Correge, a beautiful Painting of it is in Madame
Bonaparte’s Apartments in the Thuilleries – went with Mr R to the Theatre
Francais and was much pleased with Moliere’s Tartuffe (by Baptiste`) had a Book
[sic].
19. Went again to the
Bibliotheque Nationale saw the Cabinet of Antiques & Gems &
Medals. Among the Manuscripts saw
the Virgil from the Vatican – the Josephus &c [?] in fine
preservation. Went in the Evening
with Mr S. & R. to the Opera (Le Mystere d’Isis) & very beautiful one
[?] the Music chiefly Mozart’s from Zauberfloete. Heard Pleyel’s German Hymn accompanied with the best dancing
(Madlle Meliere the most elegant figure) also the Manly Heart.
Oct.20. Called with Mr Roese on Monsr. De Narp received an invitation
to dine with him on Sunday. Thence
to look for Music, & in the Evening to an Opera Concert performed in a
capital manner – began with a Symphony of Winter’s then a Bravura by Madame
Mara [?] – then a most admirable performance on the Horn by Fredk De Vernoix,
afterwards a charming Song by Mara followed by a Symphony of Kreutzer’s played
by himself & Brother &finished with as beautiful a Song by Mara as was
heard. The House was lighted
better than it generally is and there was a great deal of Company among whom
was Mr & Mrs Fox in a Box with S.Rogers – Madme Tallien &c.
21. Spent the morning at the Bibliotheque Nationale looking at the
Prayer Book of Charles le Chauve written in the 9th Century. Ditto - of Louis 12th famous for its colored flowers etc
Ditto –of Louis 14th most splendidly illuminated. Saw the Original Letters of Henry 8th
to Anne Boleyn – also the original Letters of Louis 14th &
Madame Maintenont [sic] In the Evening
went to Miss Williams’s Party chiefly Men. The old blind Monsr Poujon – Marquis relation of the Prince
de Conte the famous Eisnare who was very active during the Revolution & a
fine Orator – Mr S. Rogers – Boddington – Col Blaquiere & several English –
went afterwards to Frascati & saw them almost all there
22. Wrote a long Letter to
P. Mallet – called on Mr Roese – after dinner went with him to Pleyel’s, bought
Six Duos for 2 Violins of his last Publication.
23. Went with Mr S. to the
Prefecture, called on Mr Roese bought 3 Duos for 2 Violins (Kreutzer) met in
the Palais Royal my old schoolfellow Francis – went with Mr R. in the Evening
to Theatre Feydeau saw Paul & Virginie miserably performed – Recd a Letter
from D: Walker & from G.T. Smart.
24. Wrote a long Letter to
Miss M. dined with Mr Roese at M. De Narp’s in company with Mrs De Narp two
Sons & a Daughter & a Gentleman &Lady from Marseilles – spent a
very pleasant day – saw two most excellent Violins & many capital
Paintings, also a good Library In
the Evening went with Mr Roese to Frascati.
Oct.25th. Wrote
to C.M. went with M. Roese to the
Sitting of the Tribunat, but nothing very important was there discussed. The Members wear an Uniform with silver
embroidery & many with tricolored sashes, and a Drum beats upon their
entering the Salle. In all such
Assemblies the Military attend to preserve order. After dinner finished a long letter to C.M. & wrote to
C. Walker [?] to send by Mrs Salmon who set off by the Diligence to Rouen at 10
0’clock.
26. Went with M. Roese to
see the Model of Switzerland & the Portraits representing the different
Costumes of the Peoples; it is admirably executed. The Peyke de Tourne [?] the highest mountain in Switzerland,
is said to be 13297 feet above the Sea & the Lake de Thoune 1084. In the same room on the Chimney Piece
is the Representation in Bas Relief of the well known William Tell, at the
Moment of his shooting with an Arrow, at an Apple placed on the head of his son
as a Punishment for his refusing to pay homage to his Prince in the way many
did by taking off his Hat at the time of passing by a Pole erected for that
purpose with a Hat upon the top of it.
Went to the Palace of the Luxembourgh [sic] & the Garden , and to
l’Eglise de St Sulpice saw the ceremony of Matrimony, there is nothing
remarkable in the inside of the Church but the Front & its Towers are finer
than any thing in Paris. The
architecture of one of the Towers is extremely beautiful representing in its
Pillars the Tuscan Doric & Ionic orders – Went in the Evening with the
Countess d’Houdetot & M. Roese to the Opera in the Boxes & saw for the
second time Tamerlan some of the singing very good, & the dancing very
fine.
27. Went with M. Roese to
the Ecole Medicine heard a very good Memoire read & saw the Prizes bestowed
upon the Ladies & young men by the President Foureroyche [?] wears a Dress
with a light blue embroidery & a Sword. The Amphitheatre is handsome & contains many 100s. Before Dinner took the 1st
Lesson on the Violin with M. D’Haussey.
Oct. 28 Called on Mr
Francis Hotel de Paris Rue La Loi –went to the Bibliotheque saw Colbert’s
Manuscripts & the Original Letters of Henry 8th to La Marquise
De Verneuil took a Copy of one &also of Henry 8th to Anne Boleyne – saw the
Italian Manuscripts of Terence and Horace – spent the Evening with Mr Roese in
Practising & Reading
29. Went with M.Roese to
see the Monumens d’Antiquite – observed in the Salle of the 13th
Siecle an excellent likeness of Bonaparte in Metal in the form of a Shield with
an inscription “Bonaparte ne a Ajaccio le15th Aoust 1769” called on M Prieur & took a lesson
on the Violin before dinner, spent the Evening with M. Roese.
30. Practised two hours
–dined at Semestre’s with Mr Roese & M Francis. In the Evening played at Billiards with Mr R: saw old M Castelleau & his son from
Bordeaux. Finished reading
Moliere’s Misanthrope.
31. Went with M.R. to the Gallery, but being Sunday & a Public Day
the crowd was amazingly troublesome – dined at Mevron’s [?] Palais Royal found
it very inferior to Semestres – went to the Opera but was not pleased either
with the Music or Singing in Oedipe [?] the Ballet (which I had seen before)
“Dansomanie” is most charming
Nov. 1 Went early with M.
R to call on Lady d’Houdetot, but the weather was too unfavourable to go to St
Cloud as was our intention – practiced Pleyel’s Duos an hour before
dinner. Went in the Evening to Miss Williams’s Party,
saw Mr S.Rogers, Col Blaquiere, Miss Linwood & several English Ladies,
afterwards to meet M. Roese at Frascati.
2. Went with M. Roese
& M. De Narp to see the Pictures – took a Lesson before Dinner – Went to
the Opera to see a second time (Le Mystere D’Isis) and a most excellent Ballet
in which Vestris performed wonderfully.
Went thence to Frascati saw the Countess D’Houdetot. Returning home saw Mr Allen went with
him to find out a Ball, but saw nothing but Gambling –Received a Letter from
P.& C.M.
Nov 3d. Called with M
Roese on Madame D’Houdetot & went to Bagatelle to Breakfast saw the
Apartments and Park formerly belonging to the Count d’Artois, thence we went to
St Cloud & Bonaparte being absent on a Tour to Rouen, Havre &c we saw
the Apartments in the Palace which are just furnished with everything new, and
are as splendid as can be conceived.
There are many of the finest Paintings selected from the Italian School
& three very fine ones painted by David of Paris, of Madame Bonaparte
Girard – of Genl. Bonaparte on horseback passing Mount St Bernard & of
Genl. Dessais at the Battle of Marengo falling from his Horse supported by a
young officer, & a Mameluke behind holding his Horse.
4. Spent the Morning
in Practising & in the Palais
Royal – went in the Evening with M R. to Sovrie’s [?] Amusantes in La Place du
Carousel where there is a Ball three times in the week composed of People as
light in their Caracteres [sic] as in their Dancing – several Children not more
than 7 or 8 years of age exhibiting with all the dignity of their Elders.
5. Wrote to P.M. C.M.
& D. Walker to send by Mr Francis – took a Lesson & spent the Evening
with M Roese.
6. Called with M. Roese on Lady D’Houdetot
heard her sing some beautiful French Songs & play Sonatas of Pleyel with
skill, thence went to all on Monsr. Le Sage my old Master at Newington Green
School, but could not meet with him.
In the Evening R went with Roese [?] to Theatre Francais to hear
Molieres Femmes Savantes performed.
Baptiste acted.
7. Sunday. Went to the Protestant Church in Rue St
Omer to hear Paul Henri Marron, was pleased with his discourse, showing how
little Riches were to be valued without knowledge, or rather how much more
preferable is ‘La Sagesse’ Called
afterwards with M Roese on M. De Narp, walked on the Terrace in the Thuilleries
with his Lady & family & dined with them – thence to Frascati’s &
on returning home we went into the Gambling House in Rue de La Loi – saw Mr S.
Rogers who told me that they began playing at 12 mid-day & continued till 8
next Morning.
Novr 8. Spent the Morning
in the Gallery of the Louvre – took a Lesson before dinner – in the Evening
went to Miss Williams’s Party – saw Mr & Mrs Sabonadere & family, was
introduced to Monsr Gombard d’oussons [?] – Genl Kosciuskow – Miss Linwood who
took me in her Carriage to Frascati’s.
9. Went with M R. to the
Louvre, saw also the Sabine Picture, Horatii, death of Brutus, and Bonaparte on
the Mount St. Bernard all painted by Monsr David, the last is a copy of the one
in the Palais St Cloud, where Bonaparte is on Horseback pointing to his Soldiers
who are crossing the Mountain, at the Bottom of the Picture are the names of
the three warriors Carolus Magnus, Hannibal & Bonaparte, it is to be sent
as a present from 1st Consul to the Cisalpine Republic. Went to the
Opera, saw Semiramis & the Ballet Telemachus in which Vestris performed as
wonderfully as ever, & Kreutzer executed a most beautiful Solo Part in the
Ballet, & tho’ it was full of Variations & Cadences two of the first
Women Dancers accompanied him all thro’it.
10. Took a lesson in
Mestrina’s [?] Studies – answered a Letter from Miss M. Called on Monsr Le Sage & spent the
Evening with M. Sabonadiere & family where I met Miss Linwood.
11. Called on Monsr De Narp – went in the Evening with M R. to Theatre
Francais to see Voltaire’s Alzire & Moliere’s Le Medecin malgre lui performed, was pleased
with La Fond [?] in Alzire, but the Tare [?] is too indecent to act.
12. Went to call on Monsr
Gombart D’onnous in La Rue des Noyers but could not find his Lodging – took a
lesson before dinner, & went with M. R. to the Opera Les Pretendus &
the Ballet de Paris which is one of the finest wherein the two Vestris dance
admirably.
13. Called with M R. on
Tourte – took a Lesson before dinner
Spent the Evening with M R & at 1 o’clock went with him to the
Ballet Masque at the Opera House which I was much disappointed in. Came away
about 5 o’clock & the same Morning went to hear Mass at Notre Dame &
afterwards to hear Monsr Marron
Nov. 14 at the Protestant
Church. In the Evening went again
with M R. to the Opera – Caravane & Les Nous de Garnache which gave me a
good specimen of the French Music.
15. Went with M. R. to
Lady D’Houdetot who accompanied me to Rue St Denis to purchase Lace
&c. M. R and myself dined with
Monsr De Narp & afterwards I went to Miss Williams’s Party & saw Mr and
Mrs Sabonadiere & family, Miss Linwood & Mr De Maria – Mr Rogers – Capt
Browne Mr Billsberry [?] & Monsr Gombes d’ourrous [?]
16. Took the last Lesson
of Monsr. D’Haussey – took leave of the Genl. Commandant de Dijon in the Palais
Royal called on Monsr Gombes d’ourrons [?] – Didot – Tourte. Spent the Evening with Mr & Mrs
Sabonadiere.
17. Called on Lady
D’Houdetot – Miss Williams & went to the Prefecture, met Mr De Narp &
M. Roese – went with Mr De N. to
see a Capital Violin by Amati [?] with Pike for 125 Louis thence to Tourte for
a Bow, and after Dinner M Roese & myself went to take leave of Mr De Narp
& family who treated us as usual with the greatest politeness &
friendship, thence we went to Rue Vivienne [?] & left Paris by the
Diligence for Rouen at 10 o’clock, and were on the Road about 22 Hours –came to
the Hotel de France & enjoyed an excellent Supper & Beds.
19. [there is no entry for 18] Called on Mrs Hartley – went to see St Ouen & the
Municipalite,Cathedral, Bridge & Boats the Machine for cleansing the River,
then called on Monsr Dubec & thence to the Sugar Refinery of Sautelets [?]
in La Rue des Carmes where the Mistress showed us every thing with the greatest
politeness & gave a particular account of the Manufactury [?] Young Mr Hartley called in the Evening
with a Letter for Miss Walker & told us how Bonaparte had been received
& of his comparing Paris, Rouen, & Havre to one Town united by the
grand Street the Seine.
Nov. 20 Took leave of my
good friend M. Roese who set off for Paris at 4 o’clock in the Morning and at 8
o’clock I left Rouen in the Diligence for Dieppe where I arrived at about 7
o’clock.
21. Walked upon the Beach
& Pier – dined with Mr Billings played at Billiards – over the Gate at the
entrance of the Town is written upon Bonaparte’s Visiting Dieppe “Dans les
Murs, hors les Murs tout parle de sa Gloire” In the Evening the Miss Tuppings of Brighton were at
Roland’s Hotel. The
Bonaparte Packet Boat, Capt Salvator did not sail tho’ the wind was quite
favourable and detained us till the 24th after promising every morning and evening to leave Dieppe or
to take nothing for the Passage, cleared the Harbour at 11 o’clock, and the Sea
was so rough that the Passengers soon were glad to take possession of their
Beds where many of them remained during the whole of the Voyage, & owing
either to ignorance or intention the Captain after having remained some hours
at anchor, brought us within about a Mile from the shore near Eastbourne at 5
o’clock the Evening of the 25th then had to go a long way to the
Custom House, slept at E. Bourne and being disappointed of a Chaise Mr Billings
& self took our Baggage in a Cart to Seaford, thence went in a Post Chaise
to Brighton through Newhaven where much to our surprise we had to pay 2/= [?]
for passing the Bridge – arrived at about 6 o’clock & spent the Evening
with Lady Jones, Miss Parnell
27. Left Brighton at 8
o’clock in the morning and had a pleasant ride on the outside of the Coach by
the Reigate Road, to London where I arrived early enough to get to Highbury
just in time to take tea with all the family. Oh “Domum, dulce Domum.”
