Sunday 16 May 2021

A visit to the Admiral's





"Dyn bach duwiol, tew a seimllyd"

“A little, short, fat, oily man of God.”




Duw a’m gwaredo!  God forgive me!  Those were the words  - in Welsh of course - that all unbidden sprang to mind as I arrived on the Admiral's driveway and observed the Bishop about to enter the front door, sporting his customary black gaiters and his broad-brimmed, low-crowned hat.   His posture, albeit not that of his usual ecclesiastical pomposity, had the familiar quality of florid caricature; the hand held to the back suggesting not merely pain, but pain beyond the ken of common mortals.  The man was evidently in need of Win's famous manipulations.  Even so, I found it difficult to be sympathetic.   The prospect of having to be civil to such a little toad, agonised or not, gave me a shiver of displeasure.   I bade Williams slacken his pace, and pull the gig in under the shadow of the elms, from where I was able to observe the Admiral helping him up the steps and through the portals.   With mixed feelings I recollected Richard saying that Providence's allowing such creatures as the Bishop to crawl upon the surface of the earth was simply to provide material for satirical reflection.  Richard liked to quote Bernard Mandeville to the effect that humility was not so ponderous a virtue that it needed a coach and six to drag it along.  Or even a coach and two.   Why was it, I asked myself, that diffident, humorous people like Richard died before their time, while self-serving nonentities like the Bishop seemed to go on forever?   I shuddered at the recollection of how, thirty years ago, when he was a curate in Manorbier, and I a mere girl of eighteen, he had attempted to force himself upon me - unsuccessfully, I should add - and then compounded the offence by preaching a sermon the following Sunday on the general iniquity and unsatisfactoriness of females.  At the time my estimable guardian, Dr Lewis, had merely smiled and laughed me out of my sense of outrage, declaring that the curate was no monster, merely a buffoon.  He added that any person so adept at deluding himself was well qualified for the vocation of deluding others, and would be bound to go far in the world.  So, in the event, it had proved. 


"Ah! my little nut brown maid!" cried the Admiral, who re-emerged as I alighted from the gig.  It was his customary salutation, one that never failed to set my teeth on edge.  The fact that it was my first visit since the funeral was no good reason, in his eyes, for putting a moratorium upon jocularity.   Sir Henry Richards was, if nothing else, a creature of habit, and he had first distinguished me by that particular mode of address on that eventful voyage on the Dorelia, all those years ago.  Then, as now, he had affected an obtuse manner - and he had never entirely discarded the juvenile jargon of Westminster school.  In fact Sir Henry was anything but obtuse, but it was part of his character to seem so.  I put up with this elaborate charade with as much good humour as I could muster, which was not so difficult a task.  For all his quirks and affectations, he had a good heart, the possession of which is a saving grace that counterbalances a multitude of sins.  And in any case it would be absurd to construe his remark as a slight delivered de haut en bas for, if anything, his countenance was even darker than mine.  His hair and eyebrows were admittedly not as black, but his face, weather-beaten by a lifetime in the service, and bearing the marks of a powder explosion aboard the Centaur at the famous battle of Cape St Vincent - was undoubtedly of a duskier hue.  


"What do you think of this weather, then, little nut brown maid?  Devilish hot, if you ask me.  But of course with your complexion you can stand it better than us white folks.   Win will be very pleased to see you, she has been asking about you every day since the funeral," he said.  "Only at eight bells she was saying to me, 'If she don't come to see us today, I'm goin' round there tomorrow, come hell or high water."


"Ah yes.  That sounds like Win.  The Bishop called, I see."


"Take a dish of tea, Bellinda, her leddyship won't be long."


I tried to suppress a smile at “her leddyship.”  How Walford would be turning in his grave to discover that his old adversary Mrs Cadwallader, the Abigail or bunter of Neuadd Fawr, and later "manipulatrix in chief to the British fleet" (as he delighted in putting it)  had inexplicably become Lady Richards of The Moorings.   But Walford’s sarcastic tongue, that used to have us all on pins with apprehension, had long been silent, and to me Win remained what she had always been, my oldest and most loyal friend. 


"Win is still doing her manipulations, then?  I thought she said she was giving it up."


"She mostly has, you know.  But she still likes to keep her hand in with them as, er, needs to be taken in hand.   And for special requests, as you might say.   And the Bishop looks to be in a sad state, poor dab.   What a power of doing good that woman has.  A force of nature, that's what I call her.  When she's not manipulatin' she's busy diggin' up the garden."


Or lyin' on a hammock, I thought to myself.  "I'm glad she is otherwise occupied," I said, "for I would appreciate some private conversation with you.  The fact of the matter is that it is you that I really wanted to see."


"You don't say so!" he replied.  "Nothing amiss, I trust?"


"That is what I would like to ascertain.  I mean, whether there really is anything amiss.  I think I may stand in need your good advice, Sir Henry." 


"You had better come inside and tell me about it."


Seated in the study, where tea was presently served, I unburdened myself to the Admiral on the subject of Richard's private papers, which I had only that morning started to examine.   It was no surprise to me to find letters of a confidential character amongst them, touching on the activities of spies and informers.   Richard had never made any secret of the fact that at the time of the American rebellion he was acting as a double agent, using the alias of "Ryder." I was nonetheless somewhat startled to discover a dossier containing documents relating to a proposed French invasion of Ireland, plans which had been apparently been drawn up by a person by the name of d'Auberade.  I recollected that this was the name of the author of the exculpatory pamphlet on the French spy who had been executed for High Treason in 1781, at the time of the American war, Francis Henry de la Motte.  There were also various letters addressed to Ryder from other individuals whose names I recognised, such as Waltrond, Baudouin and Henry Lutterloh, the first two known to me as French spies, the third as the devious adventurer and perjurer who had been the principal witness of the Crown against de la Motte, and who had disappeared in such mysterious circumstances at St Pierre. 


"Ah yes, the famous Lutterloh!" exclaimed the Admiral, with a grimace.


"The same," I said.  "The man whose career so well confirms that couplet about treason."


"I am not one of your literary folk, Bellinda.  You will be good enough to remind me of it."


"'Treason doth never prosper; what's the reason?  

  For if it doth, it is no longer treason."


"It is true," said the Admiral after a moment’s reflection,  "that he avoided the dreadful fate that befell his accomplice.  But as for otherwise prospering, I think not."


"I am not displeased to hear it.  But what makes you say so?"


"He later turned up in India, on the coast of Coromandel, where you were born, if I am not mistaken.   Do you not recall that he was petitioning the ministry, protesting that he had been insufficiently rewarded for the efforts he had made on behalf of the Crown in securing the conviction of de la Motte?  But that must have been over ten years ago.  I have heard nothing of him of late."


"I take it his petition was not granted, then?"


"I think the Crown had at long last woken up to the brazen impudence of the man and very prudently concluded that was mere opportunism on his part.  At an earlier date of course he was simply trying to  save his own skin.  But this is ancient history, Bellinda.  There is some other matter of concern, I suppose?"


"So there is," I admitted.  "There are documents relating to the invasion of Ireland..."


"You already referred to those," said the Admiral.


"No, I am not referring to the time of the American war.  I am referring to the year 1798."


"Ah!" he cried, and turned to face the window.  


"And there is correspondence relating to the activities of certain United Irishmen signed with the initials "J.W."  And what is more, it seems that Richard is in receipt of an annual pension of £200 from the secret service fund.  You will note that I say "is" not "was"."


The Admiral still had his face averted.  I thought I heard a sigh, which might have indicated annoyance or vexation, but when he turned around his expression was quite composed.


"I see no reason why that pension should not continue to be paid to his widow," he said, "if for no other reason than to ensure that these important matters of state remain confidential."


"That is the least of it, Henry, and well you know it!"


"My dear Bellinda, you are heading up some dark alley and unless you throw some light on it you shall have lost me."


"It concerns me that Richard was not entirely the man I thought he was.  I thought that he had long done with duplicity and double dealing."


"I take it you mean his activities in, er, how shall I put it?  In the line of surveillance, shall we say.   In the normal way of things he would have been done with all that after that deplorable American fiasco.   But times have changed.  It cannot have escaped your notice that war is conducted in a more savage manner than hitherto.  It is no longer conducted with order, discipline and regularity, as it was before this execrable French rebellion destroyed all confidence and kind feeling between man and man, and turned them into brutes."


I could not help looking at the Admiral with astonishment.  How was it possible for him to keep a straight face?   From what I recalled of the famous encounter that took place off St Pierre and Miquelon, when the young Lieutenant Henry Richards covered himself with glory, there was precious little in the way of kind feeling between the combatants, and I ventured to say as much. 


The Admiral retorted that I was very much mistaken, and that the civilised Christian nations of Europe had always understood the distinction between conquest and massacre.  Unless it was conducted within a certain formal framework, there was always the danger of war not being brought to a speedy issue, and being unhappily protracted into a scene of slaughter and ruin, equally fatal and decisive to both parties. 


  But, as I recollected it, from my time aboard the Dorelia, slaughter and ruin was the very science that Lt Henry Richards (as he then was) had brought to perfection.  To speak of carronade and cannon fire being exchanged at point blank range in the context of kind feelings sounded to me like a desperate piece of casuistry - and yet I believe that Sir Henry had convinced himself that to bear arms was not necessarily to bear malice.    I believe he still liked to think of himself as a simple sailor, following orders to the best of his ability, and perfecting the honest craft of gunnery to the better achievement of mayhem and murder - all the more justified (one presumed) now that the French had embraced atheistical republicanism.   It was a conundrum in which it was difficult to determine whether civilisation was embracing barbarism, or barbarism civilisation.    The intellectual sleight of hand that permitted the miscegenation of the best and worst human qualities, was a thing so bizarre and so grotesque as to leave the lay person grasping - or indeed gasping - after appropriate words.  For some reason I was put in mind of the lines in The Compleat Angler where the angler is advised, when he impales the frog upon the hook, to use him as if he loved him.   When I admitted that that passage had always made me shudder Dr Lewis had laughed at me for my sentimentality, and wondered whether I was proposing to vindicate the Rights of Frogs, in the same manner as the philosophers vindicated the Rights of Man. 


"I am just a simple sailor, you must realise that, Bellinda," sighed the Admiral, "I have but a poor grasp of ideas."


   Poor grasp of ideas? I could not help but recollect what Richard had said to me all those years ago, that for all his vaunted simplicity Henry Richards's had a tenacious grasp of the one simple idea which takes precedence over all others, namely the ability to knock the other fellow down.  That simple lesson  - Estote fortis in bello - was well taught at Westminster school (as indeed it is, less expensively, in many other places) and it formed the basis of many a hero's subsequent career.  The school of hard knocks says that if you pursue that one idea, all the others fall into their due and subordinate places.  What avail the Rights of Man measured against such a standard?    Amddiffyn yr Ymerodraeth,  as my guardian used do say, with a cynical smile, adding that violence in defence of Empire was no crime.   This was the lesson those schoolboys, like the esteemed Admiral, took into the larger world, and which made them such splendid servants of the Empire - a sure sense of imperial entitlement, coupled with a well-rehearsed facility for knocking down the man rash enough to beg  differ.  


"You cannot deny," said Sir Henry, "who seemed uncannily to divine my thoughts, "that civilisation depends upon the force of arms?"


That civilisation was to be equated with Empire seemed to me a debatable proposition,  but I remained silent.  I could not deny that at St Pierre it was the exercise of naval and military skill that had brought us all through.    Or rather, I could not deny that that was the official version of what had happened.  


" I would put it to you that it is no disgrace to serve one's country and one's King in whatever capacity is appropriate.  And spying, I tell you, is just another form of soldiering."


"But I have heard Richard say that spying is a filthy game, not fit for a gentleman.  And if I am not mistaken I have heard the same sentiments from your very own lips!"


"That may be so, but as we grow older we become wiser.  Il ne faut pas faire des illusions, as the Frenchies say.   One might as well say that life itself is a filthy game, not fit for a gentleman.  But that is about the size of it, when the prayer books are put away.  Our old friend Captain McCorquodale used to say that life is like a Chinese puzzle, and that there is one box concealed inside another.  The inner box contains all those precious ideas that you like to mull over - liberty, equality, the Rights of Man and so forth.  Those are the values that high falutin chatterers subscribe to, without being aware that they are truly otherworldly.  They are just like the Christian values that preachers like to talk about - the meek inheriting the earth, and all such pious rubbish.  As for the Rights of Man, they may bombinate in the brain of the philosopher, but they do not exist in the real world.  Do you suppose for a moment, Bellinda, that is how the real world is organised? The real world, if you like, is the outer box, and what counts in that world is not such things as high principle and the power of prayer, but the pursuit of power - be it by force of arms or the influence of commerce. I am a simple man but am nonetheless able to grasp one simple fact.  Without the solid base of force of arms, civilisation could not exist."


I listened to this discourse with more than a little astonishment and no little chagrin. The designation of "high falutin chatterer" was a little too close for comfort.   I was so taken aback by the naked and unashamed Hobbism of it that I flinched, as if suddenly drenched by a bucket of cold water.    By some stretch it was quite the longest speech I had ever heard the Admiral make, and the most intellectually consequential, although I had to admit that I baulked at the theory of the boxes.  I was on the point of asking why, if the Rights of Man are considered so ridiculous, the same reasoning is not applied to the Rights of Kings, but my old friend had not yet done. 


"Well, look at it this way then," he said.  " Society is indeed a pyramid, though not as commonly conceived, for it is an inverted pyramid, with the army and the navy at the base and underlying the whole structure, so that without the soldier and the sailor the whole thing would fall to pieces when put to the test, be it by the aggressive designs of foreign nations or by the canker of internal rebellion.  What you have told me about Richard is no surprise to me, " he continued.


“Not even those documents relating to a French invasion of Ireland in 1798?”


“Thanks to Robert the Ministry in London knew about it well in advance.


I was staggered and dismayed to hear this.  I thought that Richard had long given up the role of the double agent.  Had his passionate advocacy of Irish freedoms for all those years been nothing but a cynical pose?  What would Curran and Macnally have thought had they known that Richard was all along acting as an agent for Dublin Castle, and a spy for the Ministry in London?  I could not bear to think that he had acted so dishonourably and so dishonestly;  had he not assured me that he had long done with spying and double dealing?   


The Admiral saw my distress and said he could offer me some  consolation  - but on condition that I pursue the matter no further.  When I agreed, I was relieved to hear that Richard was not the ministry’s informer, but appalled to learn that his correspondence with Irish patriots and certain individuals amongst the United Irishmen was secretly and regularly passed on to the Ministry in London by no less a person than McNally - Leonard McNally - who, in the guise of an Irish patriot, was all the while in the pay of Dublin Castle.  So it appeared that Richard’s reputation as a patriot was to be salvaged by the suggestion that for all these years he had been at one and the same time the tool of a devious rascal and the unsuspecting dupe of cynical authority. 


“I won’t hear a word said against Richard,” said the Admiral.  “A genuine fellow, his eccentric Hibernian politics notwithstanding,”



Ah, those eccentric Hibernian politics!  Richard, himself an Irish patriot,  always maintained that John Bull was  incapable of acknowledging patriotism in any other nation than his own.  I was in no doubt that the recent suspension of the Parliament in Dublin had affected him deeply - and certainly did nothing to dispel the lowness of spirits he suffered during his final illness. Opposed as he was to revolutionary violence, he took that suspension as a betrayal of democracy- as a calamity for his country, and as a standing reproach to those politicians in England who had caused it to happen.   Curran was right, he said, to liken Ireland to a poor bastinadoed elephant, kneeling to receive the paltry rider.


But I had neither the inclination nor the energy to remonstrate with the Admiral.

 

"I am obliged to you for bringing to my attention the workings of the real world,” I stammered, feeling somewhat weak about the knees, and trying to come to terms with something really rather horrible.   “ I am obliged to you for intimating that I have dwelt too long amongst illusions.   It is high time I woke up.  I feel myself in need of fresh air."


"Oh indeed!" he cried.  I fancy he thought that fresh air was the antidote to anything and everything in the way of intellectual doubt.  "By all means.  Shall we take a turn in the garden?"


My mind was in turmoil but I suppose I must have replied in the affirmative.  I remember, at least, that Sir Henry took my arm in a fatherly way as I stumbled down the steps.  


Then, as if proposing a game to a small child,   “What say you to surprising Lady Richards and the Bishop in the gazebo?”


" Let us hope that she has concluded her manipulations," I cautioned.


"Would there not be a certain piquancy in surprising them?" he asked, with a dusky smile. 


"There might...  and then there might not," I said, with ill-concealed apprehension.  


"I always knew you was good for a lark!" he said, to which I made no reply, it being about as untrue an observation as it was possible to be, and especially as I was trying to come to terms with his revelations about Richard and Leonard McNally. 


Sedately, we proceeded up the gravelled path between the fragrant hedges of box.  As we neared the gazebo, the Admiral suggested we confine our footsteps to the green turf, which betrayed no sign of our approach.  Outside the gazebo there stood a table with two empty glasses and a wine bottle upon it.  There was also, in the midst of a parterre planted with periwinkles and French marigold, a fountain with a little statue of Venus, which particularly caught our attention because perched on her head, at a jaunty angle, was the Bishop's broad brimmed hat.  At the base of the statue was a goggle eyed stone frog spouting water from its mouth in a disagreeably brazen manner.   My heart sunk within me.   I felt myself perspiring as I heard pleasurable oohs and ahs from within the gazebo – sounds that will ever be as irresistible to innocent curiosity as they will be unremarked by the polite.  Rubbing his hands with glee, Sir Henry proposed that we creep up to the window and take a peep inside.  


For a brief moment, I was tempted to accede to this proposition and let this latest Westminster prank run its course.   Il ne faut pas, apres tout,  faire des illusions.  But prudence dictated otherwise, and I laid a restraining hand upon the Admiral's arm.  With my free hand, and unperceived by him, I was able to knock over the table with the bottle and the glasses.  At the same time I cried out, in words that I knew would resonate with Win,  "Cymerwch ofal!  Mae'r llongau'r llynges ar y gweull!" -  which is to say “be careful!  the ships of His Majesty's navy are in the offing!"


As if in response to the ensuing clatter and warning cry,  there came from within a flurry of indeterminate activity, a creak of furniture, a yelp of pain, and an answering crash of crockery being upset and falling to the floor.   The Admiral gave me a more than usually black look and told me I had spoiled what promised to be a piece of damnably good sport. 


Black looks notwithstanding, it was surely the right thing to do.  I bethought me of what my dear guardian and protector, Dr Lewis, would have said.   While instilling in me the importance of veracity, he had always conceded that for most people fiction has mighty advantages over the truth, and that, in the words of Dr Swift, if we take an examination of what is generally understood by happiness, we shall find all its properties and adjuncts will herd under this short definition, that it is a perpetual possession of being well deceived.   The corollary of which is that we undeceive at our peril.  It is sometimes a kinder thing to wish happiness upon our friends than good eyesight.  As we say in Wales, many a truth is better hidden.  “Llawer gwir gwell ei gelu."

The reader may suppose, if he wishes, that I acted as I did in order to protect the Admiral from the unanticipated consequences of veracity.   If truth be told, my motivation was not philosophical rigour, but, rather,  a sudden impulse to protect an old friend from unwelcome exposure.  Or perhaps I should say "friends" - for did not Sir Henry have as much of a right as the next man to be deluded? 


The reader may well wonder, in the light of what I have just said, what kind of person I was.  If he really wishes to satisfy his curiosity on that score, I must warn him - or her - that it is a convoluted story, and that in the time-honoured manner I am obliged to begin at the beginning.     



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Monday 25 January 2021

Wednesday 26 February 2014

Tour from London to Paris, 1802




This is a transcript of a 21 page home-made booklet, hand sewn, measuring 8” by 5” in blue covers, containing a manuscript account – mostly quite legible – of a tour from London to Paris made by a reasonably observant and well-connected young Englishman between September and November 1802.  Doubt about the orthography is signaled by the use of square brackets – [?]

Prefixed to the account, on the front endpaper,  is the signature “John Mallet” -  (presumably the author) of “Highbury Grove”  - from where he begins his journey and to which he returns with evident relief in the concluding lines.   The next few pages are given over to a list of useful addresses, followed by a daily account of the tour itself.

John Mallet made his visit to France during a brief window of opportunity, i.e. the Peace of Amiens, more properly perhaps the Truce of Amiens, which was in force between March 1802 and May 1803.  Hostilities between France and Britain (together with its allies) were briefly suspended.  The French Revolution had already taken place, Louis XV1 and Marie Antoinette had been executed, a Republic declared and the Terror had run its course.  This was the era of the Consulate (1799-1804) that intervened between the Directorate and the Empire declared in 1804.   Napoleon Bonaparte was the first and most prominent of the three Consuls at the helm of the First Republic – in August 1802 he had been confirmed as “First Consul for Life.” It is clear from Mallet’s record of things seen in Paris and en route that an energetic cult of personality was being nurtured to promote Napoleon’s name and fame, not only in the civic and military but also in the artistic domain.

Although Mallet’s  Parisian visit was only a matter of five weeks or so, he was busy attending concerts, opera, theatres, museums, libraries, galleries and grand houses, recording his impressions on a daily basis.  Musically inclined, he took violin lessons and shopped around for instruments.  He also gives an interesting record of other personalities that he met in Paris, not only French citizens such as Rousseau’s muse, Eliza d’Houdetot, but also British Francophiles like Helen Maria Williams (the translator of Paul et Virginie –  and whose Ode on the Peace of Amiens was declared treasonable by Napoleon!)) and Mary Linwood the celebrated worker in crewel work upon whom Napoleon (whose portrait she did in that medium) conferred the freedom of Paris in 1803.   Among other important visitors from outre-Manche mentioned by Mallet  were the poet Samuel Rogers and other notables such as Margaret King, Lady Mount Cashel and the brilliant Irish advocate John Philpot Curran – both of whom had been bitterly opposed to the recent Act of Union with Ireland.  According to his biographer, Charles Phillips, Curran’s temper “was much soured, and he saw everything with a jaundiced eye…  The change in French society wrought by the revolution was little to his taste:  it was a change from “frivolous elegance to a squalid, vulgar, beard-grown vivacity”.

         Mallet’s observations, although not altogether uncritical, offer a more balanced and less jaundiced view of the social scene that he encountered. 




                           Dieppe
 Roland’s Hotel

                           Rouen

Hotel des Bons Enfans & Hotel de France
M. Dubec  No 10  Boulevard Cauchoise
Mr Hartley  15  Rue Herbiere
Cathedral – Bridge of Boats

                           Paris

Countess of Mount Cashel
Hotel de Dome  Rue St Dominique

Miss Helene Maria Williams
         239 – Quay Malaquais au coin de la Rue des Petits Augustins

Madame Sabonaderes  Rue Bigot No 779 and la Rue de Babylone                             Maison de Marengo Rue St Dominique

Monsr Prieur
         Hotel de la Rochefoucaud     Rue de Seine  Tf St Gn [?]

Monsr De Narp   
                  463  Rue neuve des Petits Champs


Monsr Durand
                  25 Rue de Paradis  Tg [?] Poisonniere

Christo Fagan Esqre
                  Hotel d’Espagne   Rue de la Loi

Sir Robt Smyth  (Messrs Millingen & Este)
                   2 Rue Cerutti  Tg [?] Italien

Col. Tyndale   
                  9 Rue Choiseul

Mr Roese  
                  Hotel de Notre Dame Rue du Brully [?]

Mr Francis
                   Hotel de Paris Rue de la Loi

Monsr Le Sage – Chez un Marchand de fer 
                  732 Rue d’Enfer – Saint Michel

Monsr Gombeu [?] d’onnous  
                   Rue de Noyere No 296

Madame ‘Countess’  Eliza d’Houdetot 
                   Rue de Varennes  No 655

Miss Linwood 
                   Hotel de Marigny


                           Paris

Hotel de L’Univers – La Rue Croix des Petits Champs

Very – Restaurateur dans les Thuilleries

Semestre  35  St Germain – l’aufrais [?] pres du Louvre

Coudy – 239 La Rue Bailleul pres du Louvre

Remy- Limonadier 41 Rue Honore.


Tour from London to Paris

                           September 17th 1802


Left Highbury Grove Friday Morning Sept. 17th at 7 o’ clock in a Post Chaise with P. Mallet & called in Castle St for Mr Salmon when we proceeded to Epsom, a most delightful morning. And very little incommoded with dust, as this Road is the least public, which on that account, as well as for the beautiful views it affords, is far preferable to any other, at the same time there is a danger of being detained for want of Horses;  near Mickleham is Norbury Park the seat of a Mr Lock – we walked thro the Park, had a most charming view under a remarkably old Yew Tree about half way up the Hill and perhaps a finer one under another yew tree at the summit ran [saw?] the extensive  views from the front & back of the House which only require Water to render them perfect.  Were delighted with the Road all the way by Leatherhead -  Dorking.  Horsham most particularly with the Village of Hendfield, and arrived at Brighton at about 8 o’clock.

Saturday Morning.  Saw Mr & Mrs Trugood & family on the Steine dined with them at Hove about 2 miles from B. and at 8 o’clock the same Evening Mr S & myself took leave of Mr Trugood & P.M. to be conveyed to the Edinburgh Packet Capts Lind for Dieppe with about 2 Dozen Passengers. 

Sunday Morning  Sept 19th.  The weather very delightful, had some hours sleep, & suffered only from a bad cold & head-ache.  Among the Passengers was Mr Allen of London & the Honble Col Blaquiere 25th Lt Dns a very intelligent & pleasant Man – we sailed at about 5 Knots an Hour and reached Dieppe at about 7 o’ clock the same Evening.  Went to Roland’s Hotel & were much pleased with the House & attention of the family, especially one of the Daughters now only 19.  Tho’ a widow, & the eldest Son, who is a sensible & superior young Man & well deserving a better situation.

Sept 20.  Wrote to Mrs M to be sent by the 1st Packet for Brighton & left Dieppe at 2 o’ clock in the Diligence with Mr S: Col Blaquiere & Capt Stewart for Rouen – much pleased with the Country- roads & Carriage – dined at Totes and arrived at Rouen at 12 o’clock same night – slept at Turnell’s Place Loyale Rue Ganterie – Places in Diligence 10 liv; each.

21.  Called on Mrs Hartley with Miss Walker’s Letter & was pleased with her manners & politeness in giving me a letter to Miss Helen Mariah [sic] Williams – Paris.  Afterwards on Mr Dubec with Mr Swain’s Letter, & left Rouen after dinner at 2 o’clock in a Cabriolet in Company only with Mr Salmon, as Col Blaquiere & Captn Stewart seemed unwilling to join us any longer, but upon the whole were no losers [?] except in being obliged to pay 5 Guineas to be conveyed to Paris. – the country about Rouen is exceedingly beautiful, the entrance & Quay very grand, we traveled the lower Road which is a few miles longer than by Pontoise, but which is amply compensated for, by the varied & rich scenery it affords, being accompanied by the Seine almost all the way – the view from a Hill a few Miles from Rouen, commanding the Town, the Rocks, River & Wood is perhaps as grand as any view between it & Paris.  The Roads generally run for some length in a straight line, in itself certainly no beauty, but they are surrounded with such a varied Country, that the sameness is scarcely perceivable; & on each side of the Road are Apple & Pear Trees, but no doubt the principal beauty of this part of the Country is to be attributed to its River, which is constantly producing the most delightful variety, with little Islands richly wooded scattered over it, so that the Eye never feels satisfied – arrived at Galleins at 8 o’clock – made a good Supper upon Eggs, Peaches & Grapes & drank to all our friends in England in Burgundy Wine.

Sept. 22nd  Rose at 4 o’clock, and proceeded, thro’ perhaps a finer Country than before, at the Rate of about 5 Miles an hour, to Bonniere, where, while at breakfast, we were not a little surprised to see Col. B & Capt S arrive; between Galleins & Bonniere begins the Vine Country, very much resembling Hops, but not so high.  The view from a Hill before you descend to Rosny is very fine, at Rosny is the Chateau built for Sully by Henry 4th, but not to be compared to any in England; the Country about Vernon fine, & the views of the Cathedral, which meets the Eye  a short distance from Mantes, has a good effect, but the view of the Town, its Cathedral, River & Bridges over it which are all combined in one, has a charming effect upon one of the Bridges on this side towards Meulan, in the neighbourhood of which are some handsome Chateaux; dined at Meulan where Mr Allen & others overtook us – started again at about 4 o’clock & traveled thro a very fine Country to St Germain where we arrived at abt 6 o’clock , too late to have a good view of the Terrace – the Grand Ecurie is handsomer than any thing of the kind I ever saw, it formerly belonged to Count D’artois – the Town is very handsome, not unlike Oxford in the style of its Buildings.  Col Blaquiere & Capt Steward again arrive at the same Hotel, & as it seems to be their object to overtake us, it was a satisfaction to find that we always kept them behind, & by that means had the choice of our Rooms.

Sept 23rd  Left St Germain exactly at 4 o’clock,  saw the water-works at Marli – passed by MalMaison, and at 6 o’clock arrived at the 1st Barriere or Turnpike, a fine view of Paris; this being the Anniversary of the Republic Year 11 the Cannons were firing & Colors flying, & with the Sun shining it altogether had a most grand effect – this Entrance into Paris is the finest – wide enough for 8 Carriages with Trees on each side & on each side of them large walks for the Public, from the 2nd Barriere a grand view of the Thuilleries Palace & the finest part of this wonderful City.

Sept 23rd.  Breakfasted at the Hotel de lUnivers La Rue Croix des Petits Champs, then walked through the finest part of Paris & called on Monsr De Narp with a letter from Mr Barthelemon, saw two of the finest Violins perhaps in the World, and in the Eveng. Went with Mr De Narp his two sons & Mr Salmon to the Thuilleries – the Gardens splendidly illuminated crowded with People of all Countries & Descriptions & with different Spectacles & Amusements, among which the Arbre de Couron seemed most attractive & the novelty of the Scene made it the more entertaining; It may be described by supposing a middling sized Mast fixed in the Ground with a circular thing nearly at the top between 60 & 100 feet high, to which are suspended different prizes, from which any that can ascend takes his Choice, and the upper part being covered with Soap adds much to the amusement of the Spectators, for when a Man is almost within reach of the Prize the difficulty increases as much as his Strength decreases – At about 8 o’clock the Concert began at the back of the Palace composed of about 300 of the ablest Performers, & the Music & Singing had a very fine effect, soon after the beginning of the Concert Bonaparte came out upon the Gallery & after saluting the Multitude, took his Seat between the two other Consuls Cambaceres & Le Brun, & remained till the end of the Concert which was about 9 when the fire Works were displayed upon the Pont de la Revolution, & the Number of Spectators of this splendid Scene far exceed calculation.

Septr 24.  Went to the Prefecture de Police for Carte de Surete wrote a long Letter to M.M. dined at Semestres No3 Quay de l’Ecole with Mr Salmon for ?18=67 & had Soup-Beef-Potatoes – Bottle of Champaign – Desert.  Bread – Good water & waiters included – went in the Eveng. To the Theatre Francais where Andromache was admirably performed – Talma their principal actor has an excellent voice & good action and the difference between the other Performers is not so great as in England.  This Theatre is generally very full & no doubt is the best, & may be compared to Drury Lane.  Several Persons in endeavouring to get Seats made a way, by climbing over the Heads of those who were seated, which was so differently received from what would be the case in England, that it seemed to be considered as good sport, & Mr S. had a very narrow escape of being in the same awkward situation.  The Parterre is the best Place & the Price only 1/10d.

25.  Called on Mr Prieur with Mr Smart’s Letters, went with him to the National Museum, called on Lady Mount Cashel, but learnt from her friend Mme Sabonadiere, that she had left Paris – gave Mme S. the Books & Letters from Mr Parnell, was much pleased with her Manners and soon became acquainted upon her finding that I had lately seen her friends the Aikins, Barbauld, &c – went to the Louvre saw Mr S. Sharpe & Mr Maltby, but the crowd was so great that I only took a general view. & in the Evening to the Theatre de Louvois where a Concert was performed in a capital manner (Leader Kreutzer) beginning with a Symphony of Haydn’s & ending with another Sym. composed by Kreutzer & played by him & his Brother – both excellent.  Caffro performed on the Hautboy & a new Inst.  (Cor Anglais) in tone like a Voice,  Madme Rosine Quesnay sang but nothing very capital. –

Sept. 26.  Walked round the Louvre to view the different Productions of French Industry open to the Public during the Complimentary Days and after dinner went with Mr S. to Frascati a very gay & beautiful Scene the House & Gardens handsomely illuminated.

27.  Left the Hotel De L’Univers & came to No 239 au coin de la Rue Bailleul pres de Louvre, spent some time in viewing the Paintings & Statues in the Louvre in company with a very intelligent young foreigner, called on Mr S. Sharpe Hotel Marigny & saw Kemble, Erskine, S. Rogers & Boddington & in the Evening went with Mr S. to the Theatre Buffa & for 1/10 heard Kyanoni [?] &c & a good Band (Leader Kreutzer) but certainly not equal to the Opera House in England.

28.  Wrote by Mr S. Sharpe to Miss M & Dean Walker – spent the Morning at the Louvre & in the Evening went with Mr S to the Opera admission 3Fr each, saw Semiramis, but the Singing will not do after the Italian Opera, & in the Ballet (Dansamonie) [sic] the best Dancers Vestris, Deshayes, Mesdames Gardel, though by no means so far superior to those in England, as is generally supposed.

29.  Called with Mr S. on Mr Este with Mr Puffin’s Letters saw Col Tyndale, & went with Mr S. in the evening to the Theatre Montanseir where is a good comic Actor (Brunet) the only one worth seeing, & in the Lobby is exhibited a scene of the greatest profligacy & vice that can be conceived.

30.  Went in a Chaise to Mr Durand then to Panorama of Paris, called on Col Tyndale & in the Evening to the Theatre Vaudeville with Mr S: saw young Chalie & Mr Barber (Mr Huttons friend) but the Theatre not worth the trifling admission of 1/4/2.

Oct.1  Took an early Breakfast & went with Mr Salmon in a Fiacre (for 12 sous [?] =10/6 to Montmorencie saw Rousseau’s Cottage now occupied by Gretry the Composer, situated in a delightful Country, & surrounded with Vine Yards, & Fruit Trees, in passing thro’ the Wood near the Cottage, was struck with an Object not very distant, & upon approaching it, found it to be a beautiful Damsel all in white reclining upon a Bank with a Book in her hand, & her Companion sleeping by her side with her Veil over his face, which added to that interest which must be felt upon visiting the abode of Rousseau, walked round the Garden & took the following Lines from a Bust of Rousseau in one of the Garden Walks.

                  A J.J.
        
         Du Sentiment peintre fidele
         Tu fus l’inspirer a nos coeurs
         La Nature fut ton Nudite
         Tu saisis ses vives couleurs;
         Mere, ecoutez son language
         Amans, visitez ces doux lieux
         Rousseau dans ce humble Hermitage
         Connut le secret d’etre heureux.

Returning saw the abbey at St Denis which one cannot but view with regret upon seeing a Building, once so beautiful, now in the most ruinous state.  The Date upon a Stone in the Centre of the Arch is 1692.  Returned to Paris to dinner in the Evening went to the Theatre Pittoresque ou Musique, [?] where Monsr. Pierre [?] exhibited several productions of wonderful skill.

2nd.  Went with Mr S. to make some purchases in Shawls & Cambric & to Citoyen Dihl’s  Porcelain Manufactory & were highly gratified with its splendor & beauty – saw the new Opera House on the Italian Boulevard – was scarcely able to walk home being much indisposed, & seized with a weakness in all my limbs.

Oct 3rd.  Having had a bad night, did not rise ‘till 11 o’clock, & in the Evening walked to the Palais Royal & saw Bell’s Messenger.

4.  Recovered sufficiently to accompany Mr S to the Ecole Militaire, a fine Building, which may be seen without entering its Gates;  afterwards to the L’Hospital des Invalides, a noble Institution, its Saloon or Temple of Mars, is one of the finest things in Paris, there is also a very curious Clock denoting the Day of the Month, the Hour etc, its Pendulum 36 ft. long – then to the Palais du Corps Legislatif, a very handsome Building, the Hall of the Sittings is semicircular & elegantly finished it was in this Hall that an attempt was made at Bonaparte’s Life when he was protected by the two Grenadiers. [note in margin which reads “This happened in the Orangerie at St Cloud”]  The President sits in the Centre with the Statues of Lycurgus, Solon & Demosthenes on the right & Brutus, Cato & Cicero on the left.  We afterwards saw the  Ecole des Mines, in La Rue Universite & when finished will contain a very large collection of Specimens highly interesting to the Mineralogist.  We then went to the Hotel de Monnaies [?] which also contains a fine cabinet of Mineralogy where Public Lectures are given every other day during the Winter.  In the Evening we confined our walks to the Palais Royal, & in visiting several of the Shops made a purchase of some silk Stockings @ 27/ [?] per pair met with a pleasant party of young Women busy at their Millinery among whom was an English Lady with whom I had some conversation, in comparing the People of both Nations – Till this Evening there has been no Rain, of any consequence, I understand for some Months.

Oct 5.  Went with Mr S. in a Fiacre to the Observatoire – to the Manufacture des Gobelins, well worth seeing, to the Pantheon, a most grand & elegant Building, the view of Paris & the Country from the top at the height of 250 ft. is very fine upon such a clear day as this, saw in the Vault the Tombs of Voltaire & Rousseau, then went to the Palais du Senat Conservateur, the Gardens very large & handsome, saw the Hall, sat in Bonaparte’s Chair, but the whole is not as elegant as the Hall of the Corps Legislatif – we afterwards walked to Lucien Bonaparte’s House,& saw many capital Rooms hung with the finest Paintings.  In the Evening we went to the Phantasmagoroie. – Received a Letter from MM. Miss M & C.M.

6.  Engaged a Fiacre for the day for Eighteen Livres.  Mr S & myself set off early to Bagatelle to breakfast paid 15 sous each for admission, heard Madame Rosierre sing in a most superior style & found her a very pleasant Lady.  Continued our Ride through the Bois de Boulogne to St Cloud which is a very fine Place but could only see the exterior of the Palais as the 1st Consul was there, thence to the Porcelaine Manufactory at Sevres, & thence to Versailles the entrance to which is very grand with its Palace in front of the View – after dinner walked over the Garden remarkable for its Orangerie – Statues - & Jets d’eau, one of which, the Phelesque [?] contains 261= which throw the water 66 ft high Thence to Petit Trianon walked over the English Garden said to contain 120 Acres – thence to Grand Trianon - & thence to the back of the Palace saw the Apollo and Muses in a Rock (Le Rocher) the statues – Vases – Colonnade in this Part are magnificent.

Oct. 7  Being the day for the Review Mr S & self took our Station near the Principal Entrance at the Palace at about 10 o’clock & at 12 the 1st Consul attended by the Mameluke & about a dozen other officers all on horseback reviewed the Troops amounting to 5 or 6000 all making a very good appearance especially the Cavalry & Grenadiers – had an excellent view, towards the end, of Bonaparte while the Troops were all marching before him, and was so near as to see him smile – the Review lasted for about an Hour and was excessively well managed & had a grand effect.  Saw Mr Erskine in the Palace & spoke to Mr Boyne – Called at Hotel Despagne & left Mr Smith’s Letter for Mr Fagan - & on Mr Desmaimieux Author of Pasigraphia.  In the Evening I went with Mr S. to Theatre Francais, saw Baptiste & Madlle Mesvriy [?] in the Misanthrope, was very much entertained – spoke to Mr S Rogers who was there with Mr Boddington.

8.  Wrote to G.T. Smart, dined early, & went with Mr S. to the Jardin des Plantes which when finished will be very handsome, saw the Elephant and other living Animals, also the Cabinet of Natural Hist.

9.  Went with Mr S. to Bertrand’s Exhibition, perhaps the most curious in Paris, representing in wax all the disorders to which the human body is liable, with a surprising accuracy – for Gentlemen only.  Afterwards to Ligneureux’s Magazine of Porcelaine, Cabinet Work, Bronzes &c – very splendid indeed.  The Evening being very wet, we were confined to the Cloisters of the Palais Royal.

10.  Called on Mr De Narp, thence to the Gallery saw Mr S Rogers, dined at King’s [?] Palais Royal.  Went to the the Opera to see Didon & the beautiful ballet Psyche thence to Frascati & at 1/2 past 11 Mr Boddington & S. Rogers came.

October11.  Went with Mr S to see Madame Recamier’s House No 4 Rue Mon Blanc – 9 Rooms elegantly furnished especially her Chamber with the most superb Bed, Glasses &c and at the side a beautiful Marble Figure of Silence (Motto “Tutatur somnos et amores conscia lecti”) [Silence guards the slumbers and the loves of this bed]
Thence to the Theatre Olympique in La Rue Victoire, very handsomely built after a Greek Model – thence to the Pavillon d’Hanovre to see the Models of London & Lyons.

12.  Saw the Apartments of the 1st Consul & Madame Bonaparte in the Palace.  The 1st Room (Salon de CafĂ©) very handsome and a beautiful Painting (Coreggio) “Antiope, l’Amour et Jupiter transforme en Satyre” 
2.  (Salon de Compagnie) a very elegant Room  5 Glasses, 2 Tables of most beautiful Mosaic Marble, & another of a large size in one piece of coloured Marble “Jeu [?] de Seine” with two marble Statues support Chandeliers & two other Bronze Statues fixed in Rouge Antique – 3rd
(Chambre a Coucher) Blue Silk but not so elegant as Madame Recamier’s   4th. (Salon a Dejeuner) very neat with some Paintings by Girardon and 5th. Chambre de Toilette with the small “Meubles d’Angleterre” one containing all the apparatus for a Lady set with steel studs & the other a small round Table with a pretty device in the centre and round it the 12 signs of the Zodiac in white.  In the whole about 9 Rooms and over them are the Premier Consul’s Apartments for Public Affairs, but none particularly worth notice except the large dining room for 200 – with 9 very fine statues, full size, des Grands Hommes  All these Rooms in the upper Part are hung with Tapestry & very much as they were in the old Government – in the Bibliotheque is a Mahogany round Table 71ft/2 and in one Piece – After dinner went to the meeting of the Institute to see the Prizes disposed of & to hear the different Memoires & in the Evening to Miss Williams’s Party - Countess of Oxford, Arthur o’Connor, Curran, Mackintosh & his Lady – Mr Rogers – several French Ladies &foreigners, all forming a very pleasant Converzsatione. [sic]

Oct 13.  Went with Mr S. to Hotel de Bullion Rue J.J. Rousseau to see Mr Sauvage’s Paintings in imitation of Bas Reliefs – the day being very wet played at Billiards with Mr. S. & always conquered – dined at Semestre’s where (owing to the irratability [sic] of Mr S. & my not being able to hear the remarks which are frequently made without showing some resentment) a very unpleasant conversation took place which may create a coolness between us & which will distress me much less than if I had from any incaution made use of some expressions which upon reflection I might have thought improper.  In the Evening we went to the Theatre Francais & saw Barbier de Seville (Tragi Com:) admirably performed.
          
14.  Went with Mr. S to L’Abbe Sicard’s Lecture on the Deaf & Dumb with two tickets from M. Prieur.  It is one of the most interesting things that can be conceived, and the performances of some of the Scholars are surprising.  The Lecture is given in a very intelligible & pleasing manner & the whole system appears to be excellent.  In the Evening went to the Billiard Room in Rue Honore & was highly entertained with the bad play of a Citoyen.

15.  Went with Mr S. in a Fiacre to the Manufacture des Glaces in Rue Rive [?] at the end of Rue Charenton where there are 600 persons employed.  It is well worth seeing, thence to the Castle of Vincennes now in a ruinous state thence to Charenton could not see the Ecole Veterinaire it being in a state of repair –walked across a Field to see the Junction of the Marne &Seine & returned to Paris – Paid 12* [?] =10* [?] for the Fiacre – quite sufficient.  In the Evening went to the Opera (Tamerlan) saw all the best Dansers [sic] – it is one of the most superb & splendid Operas that is performed.  Some of the Music & Singing very good, but Madame Maillard is more remarkable for size than voice – went to Frascati very full – saw Mr Sutton.

Octr. 16.  Went to see the National Museum of Monuments collected from the different Churches, many of which are much damaged, but when finished it will be a very fine collection exhibiting the state of Statuary in France from the earliest periods.  After dinner met by accident Mr Roese who had been all the morning seeking me, having brought Letters from Highbury Grove, was of course overjoyed at seeing him, we played several Games at Billiards, and I wish I could play a Duett with him on the Fiddle with equal success.  – Recd. a Letter from Dean Walker.. 

17.  Went with Mr Roese & Mr S. to hear Monsr. Demaimieux’s demonstration of Pasigraphie, certainly very ingenious, showing how soon, the Art of writing in a Language that maybe read & understood by any Foreigner, might be learnt.  He also showed that it might be spoken – dined at Very’s in the Thuilleries, certainly the most elegant Restaurateur in Paris, & of course the dearest.  In the Evening went to the Opera (Semiramis) with Mr Roese and afterwards to Frascati, saw many Englishmen.

18.  Went with Mr R. and Mr S. to the Bibliotheque Nationale one of the noblest Institutions in Paris, sufficient to say. It is superior to any thing of the kind in the World & is open to all Strangers every day, except Sunday, from 10 to 2 & on two days in the week to the Public. – Observed among the Prints (Tete de Christ “Faite d’un seul Trait en spirale plume de Roseau en commencant par le centre du Nez – dessinee par le celebre Claude Mellan en 1647 – donnee au Cab. Du Roy par [?} M. Maurice Amateur – also an Engraving of Audouin’s of “Venus endormie surprise par un Satyre” by Correge, a beautiful Painting of it is in Madame Bonaparte’s Apartments in the Thuilleries – went with Mr R to the Theatre Francais and was much pleased with Moliere’s Tartuffe (by Baptiste`) had a Book [sic].

19.  Went again to the Bibliotheque Nationale saw the Cabinet of Antiques & Gems & Medals.  Among the Manuscripts saw the Virgil from the Vatican – the Josephus &c [?] in fine preservation.  Went in the Evening with Mr S. & R. to the Opera (Le Mystere d’Isis) & very beautiful one [?] the Music chiefly Mozart’s from Zauberfloete.  Heard Pleyel’s German Hymn accompanied with the best dancing (Madlle Meliere the most elegant figure) also the Manly Heart.

Oct.20. Called with Mr Roese on Monsr. De Narp received an invitation to dine with him on Sunday.  Thence to look for Music, & in the Evening to an Opera Concert performed in a capital manner – began with a Symphony of Winter’s then a Bravura by Madame Mara [?] – then a most admirable performance on the Horn by Fredk De Vernoix, afterwards a charming Song by Mara followed by a Symphony of Kreutzer’s played by himself & Brother &finished with as beautiful a Song by Mara as was heard.  The House was lighted better than it generally is and there was a great deal of Company among whom was Mr & Mrs Fox in a Box with S.Rogers – Madme Tallien &c.

21. Spent the morning at the Bibliotheque Nationale looking at the Prayer Book of Charles le Chauve written in the 9th Century.  Ditto -  of Louis 12th famous for its colored flowers etc Ditto –of Louis 14th most splendidly illuminated.  Saw the Original Letters of Henry 8th to Anne Boleyn – also the original Letters of Louis 14th & Madame Maintenont [sic]  In the Evening went to Miss Williams’s Party chiefly Men.  The old blind Monsr Poujon – Marquis relation of the Prince de Conte the famous Eisnare who was very active during the Revolution & a fine Orator – Mr S. Rogers – Boddington – Col Blaquiere & several English – went afterwards to Frascati & saw them almost all there

22.  Wrote a long Letter to P. Mallet – called on Mr Roese – after dinner went with him to Pleyel’s, bought Six Duos for 2 Violins of his last Publication.

23.  Went with Mr S. to the Prefecture, called on Mr Roese bought 3 Duos for 2 Violins (Kreutzer) met in the Palais Royal my old schoolfellow Francis – went with Mr R. in the Evening to Theatre Feydeau saw Paul & Virginie miserably performed – Recd a Letter from D: Walker & from G.T. Smart.

24.  Wrote a long Letter to Miss M. dined with Mr Roese at M. De Narp’s in company with Mrs De Narp two Sons & a Daughter & a Gentleman &Lady from Marseilles – spent a very pleasant day – saw two most excellent Violins & many capital Paintings, also a good Library  In the Evening went with Mr Roese to Frascati.

Oct.25th.  Wrote to C.M.  went with M. Roese to the Sitting of the Tribunat, but nothing very important was there discussed.  The Members wear an Uniform with silver embroidery & many with tricolored sashes, and a Drum beats upon their entering the Salle.  In all such Assemblies the Military attend to preserve order.  After dinner finished a long letter to C.M. & wrote to C. Walker [?] to send by Mrs Salmon who set off by the Diligence to Rouen at 10 0’clock.

26.  Went with M. Roese to see the Model of Switzerland & the Portraits representing the different Costumes of the Peoples; it is admirably executed.  The Peyke de Tourne [?] the highest mountain in Switzerland, is said to be 13297 feet above the Sea & the Lake de Thoune 1084.  In the same room on the Chimney Piece is the Representation in Bas Relief of the well known William Tell, at the Moment of his shooting with an Arrow, at an Apple placed on the head of his son as a Punishment for his refusing to pay homage to his Prince in the way many did by taking off his Hat at the time of passing by a Pole erected for that purpose with a Hat upon the top of it.  Went to the Palace of the Luxembourgh [sic] & the Garden , and to l’Eglise de St Sulpice saw the ceremony of Matrimony, there is nothing remarkable in the inside of the Church but the Front & its Towers are finer than any thing in Paris.  The architecture of one of the Towers is extremely beautiful representing in its Pillars the Tuscan Doric & Ionic orders – Went in the Evening with the Countess d’Houdetot & M. Roese to the Opera in the Boxes & saw for the second time Tamerlan some of the singing very good, & the dancing very fine.

27.  Went with M. Roese to the Ecole Medicine heard a very good Memoire read & saw the Prizes bestowed upon the Ladies & young men by the President Foureroyche [?] wears a Dress with a light blue embroidery & a Sword.  The Amphitheatre is handsome & contains many 100s.  Before Dinner took the 1st Lesson on the Violin with M. D’Haussey.

Oct. 28  Called on Mr Francis Hotel de Paris Rue La Loi –went to the Bibliotheque saw Colbert’s Manuscripts & the Original Letters of Henry 8th to La Marquise De Verneuil took a Copy of one &also of Henry 8th to Anne Boleyne – saw the Italian Manuscripts of Terence and Horace – spent the Evening with Mr Roese in Practising & Reading

29.  Went with M.Roese to see the Monumens d’Antiquite – observed in the Salle of the 13th Siecle an excellent likeness of Bonaparte in Metal in the form of a Shield with an inscription “Bonaparte ne a Ajaccio le15th Aoust 1769”  called on M Prieur & took a lesson on the Violin before dinner, spent the Evening with M. Roese.

30.  Practised two hours –dined at Semestre’s with Mr Roese & M Francis.  In the Evening played at Billiards with Mr R:  saw old M Castelleau & his son from Bordeaux.  Finished reading Moliere’s Misanthrope.

31. Went with M.R. to the Gallery, but being Sunday & a Public Day the crowd was amazingly troublesome – dined at Mevron’s [?] Palais Royal found it very inferior to Semestres – went to the Opera but was not pleased either with the Music or Singing in Oedipe [?] the Ballet (which I had seen before) “Dansomanie” is most charming

Nov. 1  Went early with M. R to call on Lady d’Houdetot, but the weather was too unfavourable to go to St Cloud as was our intention – practiced Pleyel’s Duos an hour before dinner.  Went in  the Evening to Miss Williams’s Party, saw Mr S.Rogers, Col Blaquiere, Miss Linwood & several English Ladies, afterwards to meet M. Roese at Frascati.   

2.  Went with M. Roese & M. De Narp to see the Pictures – took a Lesson before Dinner – Went to the Opera to see a second time (Le Mystere D’Isis) and a most excellent Ballet in which Vestris performed wonderfully.  Went thence to Frascati saw the Countess D’Houdetot.  Returning home saw Mr Allen went with him to find out a Ball, but saw nothing but Gambling –Received a Letter from P.& C.M.

Nov 3d.  Called with M Roese on Madame D’Houdetot & went to Bagatelle to Breakfast saw the Apartments and Park formerly belonging to the Count d’Artois, thence we went to St Cloud & Bonaparte being absent on a Tour to Rouen, Havre &c we saw the Apartments in the Palace which are just furnished with everything new, and are as splendid as can be conceived.  There are many of the finest Paintings selected from the Italian School & three very fine ones painted by David of Paris, of Madame Bonaparte Girard – of Genl. Bonaparte on horseback passing Mount St Bernard & of Genl. Dessais at the Battle of Marengo falling from his Horse supported by a young officer, & a Mameluke behind holding his Horse.

4.  Spent the Morning in  Practising & in the Palais Royal – went in the Evening with M R. to Sovrie’s [?] Amusantes in La Place du Carousel where there is a Ball three times in the week composed of People as light in their Caracteres [sic] as in their Dancing – several Children not more than 7 or 8 years of age exhibiting with all the dignity of their Elders.

5. Wrote to P.M.  C.M. & D. Walker to send by Mr Francis – took a Lesson & spent the Evening with M Roese.

 6.  Called with M. Roese on Lady D’Houdetot heard her sing some beautiful French Songs & play Sonatas of Pleyel with skill, thence went to all on Monsr. Le Sage my old Master at Newington Green School, but could not meet with him.  In the Evening R went with Roese [?] to Theatre Francais to hear Molieres Femmes Savantes performed.  Baptiste acted.

7.  Sunday.  Went to the Protestant Church in Rue St Omer to hear Paul Henri Marron, was pleased with his discourse, showing how little Riches were to be valued without knowledge, or rather how much more preferable is ‘La Sagesse’  Called afterwards with M Roese on M. De Narp, walked on the Terrace in the Thuilleries with his Lady & family & dined with them – thence to Frascati’s & on returning home we went into the Gambling House in Rue de La Loi – saw Mr S. Rogers who told me that they began playing at 12 mid-day & continued till 8 next Morning.

Novr 8.  Spent the Morning in the Gallery of the Louvre – took a Lesson before dinner – in the Evening went to Miss Williams’s Party – saw Mr & Mrs Sabonadere & family, was introduced to Monsr Gombard d’oussons [?] – Genl Kosciuskow – Miss Linwood who took me in her Carriage to Frascati’s.

9.  Went with M R. to the Louvre, saw also the Sabine Picture, Horatii, death of Brutus, and Bonaparte on the Mount St. Bernard all painted by Monsr David, the last is a copy of the one in the Palais St Cloud, where Bonaparte is on Horseback pointing to his Soldiers who are crossing the Mountain, at the Bottom of the Picture are the names of the three warriors Carolus Magnus, Hannibal & Bonaparte, it is to be sent as a present from 1st Consul to the Cisalpine Republic. Went to the Opera, saw Semiramis & the Ballet Telemachus in which Vestris performed as wonderfully as ever, & Kreutzer executed a most beautiful Solo Part in the Ballet, & tho’ it was full of Variations & Cadences two of the first Women Dancers accompanied him all thro’it.


10.  Took a lesson in Mestrina’s [?] Studies – answered a Letter from Miss M.  Called on Monsr Le Sage & spent the Evening with M. Sabonadiere & family where I met Miss Linwood.

11. Called on Monsr De Narp – went in the Evening with M R. to Theatre Francais to see Voltaire’s Alzire  & Moliere’s Le Medecin malgre lui performed, was pleased with La Fond [?] in Alzire, but the Tare [?] is too indecent to act.

12.  Went to call on Monsr Gombart D’onnous in La Rue des Noyers but could not find his Lodging – took a lesson before dinner, & went with M. R. to the Opera Les Pretendus & the Ballet de Paris which is one of the finest wherein the two Vestris dance admirably.

13.  Called with M R. on Tourte – took a Lesson before dinner  Spent the Evening with M R & at 1 o’clock went with him to the Ballet Masque at the Opera House which I was much disappointed in. Came away about 5 o’clock & the same Morning went to hear Mass at Notre Dame & afterwards to hear Monsr Marron

Nov. 14  at the Protestant Church.  In the Evening went again with M R. to the Opera – Caravane & Les Nous de Garnache which gave me a good specimen of the French Music.

15.  Went with M. R. to Lady D’Houdetot who accompanied me to Rue St Denis to purchase Lace &c.  M. R and myself dined with Monsr De Narp & afterwards I went to Miss Williams’s Party & saw Mr and Mrs Sabonadiere & family, Miss Linwood & Mr De Maria – Mr Rogers – Capt Browne Mr Billsberry [?] & Monsr Gombes d’ourrous [?]

16.  Took the last Lesson of Monsr. D’Haussey – took leave of the Genl. Commandant de Dijon in the Palais Royal called on Monsr Gombes d’ourrons [?] – Didot – Tourte.  Spent the Evening with Mr & Mrs Sabonadiere.

17.  Called on Lady D’Houdetot – Miss Williams & went to the Prefecture, met Mr De Narp & M. Roese – went with Mr De N.  to see a Capital Violin by Amati [?] with Pike for 125 Louis thence to Tourte for a Bow, and after Dinner M Roese & myself went to take leave of Mr De Narp & family who treated us as usual with the greatest politeness & friendship, thence we went to Rue Vivienne [?] & left Paris by the Diligence for Rouen at 10 o’clock, and were on the Road about 22 Hours –came to the Hotel de France & enjoyed an excellent Supper & Beds.

19. [there is no entry for 18]   Called on Mrs Hartley – went to see St Ouen & the Municipalite,Cathedral, Bridge & Boats the Machine for cleansing the River, then called on Monsr Dubec & thence to the Sugar Refinery of Sautelets [?] in La Rue des Carmes where the Mistress showed us every thing with the greatest politeness & gave a particular account of the Manufactury [?]  Young Mr Hartley called in the Evening with a Letter for Miss Walker & told us how Bonaparte had been received & of his comparing Paris, Rouen, & Havre to one Town united by the grand Street the Seine.

Nov. 20  Took leave of my good friend M. Roese who set off for Paris at 4 o’clock in the Morning and at 8 o’clock I left Rouen in the Diligence for Dieppe where I arrived at about 7 o’clock. 

21.  Walked upon the Beach & Pier – dined with Mr Billings played at Billiards – over the Gate at the entrance of the Town is written upon Bonaparte’s Visiting Dieppe “Dans les Murs, hors les Murs tout parle de sa Gloire”  In the Evening the Miss Tuppings of Brighton were at Roland’s Hotel.   The Bonaparte Packet Boat, Capt Salvator did not sail tho’ the wind was quite favourable and detained us till the 24th  after promising every morning and evening to leave Dieppe or to take nothing for the Passage, cleared the Harbour at 11 o’clock, and the Sea was so rough that the Passengers soon were glad to take possession of their Beds where many of them remained during the whole of the Voyage, & owing either to ignorance or intention the Captain after having remained some hours at anchor, brought us within about a Mile from the shore near Eastbourne at 5 o’clock the Evening of the 25th then had to go a long way to the Custom House, slept at E. Bourne and being disappointed of a Chaise Mr Billings & self took our Baggage in a Cart to Seaford, thence went in a Post Chaise to Brighton through Newhaven where much to our surprise we had to pay 2/= [?] for passing the Bridge – arrived at about 6 o’clock & spent the Evening with Lady Jones, Miss Parnell

27.  Left Brighton at 8 o’clock in the morning and had a pleasant ride on the outside of the Coach by the Reigate Road, to London where I arrived early enough to get to Highbury just in time to take tea with all the family.  Oh “Domum, dulce Domum.”